Tokyo - Takayama
After a few days in Tokyo it was time to head back to Takayama, to do the many things we didn't have enough time to during the first trip.
First things first we went to the food courts (again!) to stock up on lunch and snacks for the train trip (which is around 4 hours) We activated our 7 day JR rail pass and settled into our seats.
After arriving in Takayama we headed straight to our Ryokan. During our first stay in Takayama we had stayed in Tanabe Ryokan but really didn't think that it was great value for money, it was fairly pricey and the facilities were not great. The people were absolutely lovely (they even sent a postcard after our visit!) but I decided to look around to see if there were better accommodation options elsewhere. We settled on Sumiyoshi Ryokan, which was 20,900Y for two including breakfast & dinner.
Sumiyoshi was a bit further from the train station, but the location was quite good as it was right on the river, across from the morning markets. The food at the Ryokan was good, but not great by Japanese standards. However as I have said many times before, any Japanese food is exceptional! Also strangely there were communal toilets, but they were not as scary as I had thought they would be - I didn't cross paths with anyone else the entire time even though the ryokan was fully booked.
Dinner each night was the usual traditional kaseiki cuisine.
After dinner we went to explore outside a little. Not far from Sumiyoshi ryokan we found a series of alleyways with lanterns strung all along that seemed to be full of clubs and izakayas, there was even a cat cafe nearby. We desperately wanted to go into one of the bars for some japanese nightlife but unfortunately I wasn't feeling very well and had to go back to the ryokan - one day I will visit those bars!! Or you can do it for me and tell me what it was like ;)
The next day we headed straight to the Migawa morning markets. The markets are always very busy, which adds a great atmosphere. We walked along and tried as many different food samples as possible. I stocked up on sesame crisp snacks, candied peanuts, chewy sesame candy and jewellery. Many of the shopfronts have locals making the food so you can watch how everything is made from candy to waffles. I bought ridiculous amounts of jewellery from a stall I had visited on my last trip and the owner was so chuffed and kept on giving me more and more free pieces. They made great gifts and every time I wear one I always get comments!
It was fairly early in the morning and even though we had a large japanese breakfast at the ryokan, and had tried as many food samples as we could from the street vendors, we decided we still needed to fit in a few Hida Beef Buns. One of our favourite foods from our first trip. There is a stall along the river where the Migawa morning markets are set up and they sell steaming hot Hida Beef Buns as well as other Hida Beef specialities. ALL DELICIOUS. And if its a cold morning there is nothing better than holding onto a steaming hot bun and eating that delicious filling.
Now completely stuffed, we thought it might be a good idea to check out the other morning markets in Takayama which are situated further up the river, and on the other side. It was a nice walk especially since we needed to do SOMETHING to burn off all that food, but the markets ended up being a more fresh produce for the locals market. Still interesting to see, but nothing for us to buy ;)
Still feeling full, but being absolute pigs we started thinking about what we would do for lunch. Having two days in Takayama this time around was so much better, as this meant we did not have to rush at all and could then take our time and just wander around. So since we were not starving yet - we did just that. Wandering around the streets of Takayama made me realise that you could spend so much more time here, beyond the tourists sites, the town itself is just gorgeous. All the local streets are so peaceful and traditional looking, with cute little cafes and restaurants dotted everywhere. We came across quite a lot of restaurants with Hida Beef with Hoba Miso on the menu, but continued to look around until we found a well priced one. Surprisingly, after circling quite a few blocks we ended back at the old town on Sannomachi street and found a great restaurant there that had Hida Beef on the menu at a great price. It was a building that I had walked past many a time and is very easy to find, it has a big smily wooden cat (or Maneki Neko) out the front :)
The restaurant was located in one of the old merchant houses and was quite busy. We were able to get a table in our own private-ish room, and an old japanese couple were also sat at the same table as us. They were just gorgeous and smiled at us the whole time and attempted to communicate. The food came out as a set so there was pickles, rice, tofu, miso soup & hida beef with hoba miso. Unreal.
After lunch we continued to wander around the town, and discovered for the first time the strange japanese phenomenon that is;
In between seeing crazy dog related japanese trends, we saw quite a lot of other interesting things;
and we drank sake from a sake brewery;
All in all a great day - we stayed that night at Sumiyoshi Ryokan again, and had another half day of Takayama the next day until our bus was due to leave for Shirakawago.
After a few days in Tokyo it was time to head back to Takayama, to do the many things we didn't have enough time to during the first trip.
First things first we went to the food courts (again!) to stock up on lunch and snacks for the train trip (which is around 4 hours) We activated our 7 day JR rail pass and settled into our seats.
Train snacks are so much better in Japan. These Pierre Hermes are the best macarons I have ever had...
Business men wait to catch a train, uniformed cleaners wait down below
Even the simplest of sandwiches is better over here - delicious!
After arriving in Takayama we headed straight to our Ryokan. During our first stay in Takayama we had stayed in Tanabe Ryokan but really didn't think that it was great value for money, it was fairly pricey and the facilities were not great. The people were absolutely lovely (they even sent a postcard after our visit!) but I decided to look around to see if there were better accommodation options elsewhere. We settled on Sumiyoshi Ryokan, which was 20,900Y for two including breakfast & dinner.
Sumiyoshi Ryokan
Sumiyoshi was a bit further from the train station, but the location was quite good as it was right on the river, across from the morning markets. The food at the Ryokan was good, but not great by Japanese standards. However as I have said many times before, any Japanese food is exceptional! Also strangely there were communal toilets, but they were not as scary as I had thought they would be - I didn't cross paths with anyone else the entire time even though the ryokan was fully booked.
Dinner each night was the usual traditional kaseiki cuisine.
After dinner we went to explore outside a little. Not far from Sumiyoshi ryokan we found a series of alleyways with lanterns strung all along that seemed to be full of clubs and izakayas, there was even a cat cafe nearby. We desperately wanted to go into one of the bars for some japanese nightlife but unfortunately I wasn't feeling very well and had to go back to the ryokan - one day I will visit those bars!! Or you can do it for me and tell me what it was like ;)
Sumiyoshi Breakfast
The next day we headed straight to the Migawa morning markets. The markets are always very busy, which adds a great atmosphere. We walked along and tried as many different food samples as possible. I stocked up on sesame crisp snacks, candied peanuts, chewy sesame candy and jewellery. Many of the shopfronts have locals making the food so you can watch how everything is made from candy to waffles. I bought ridiculous amounts of jewellery from a stall I had visited on my last trip and the owner was so chuffed and kept on giving me more and more free pieces. They made great gifts and every time I wear one I always get comments!
Hida Beef Bun from along the Migawa morning market - SO SO SO DELICIOUS
If you go to Takayama, you must try these buns!
It was fairly early in the morning and even though we had a large japanese breakfast at the ryokan, and had tried as many food samples as we could from the street vendors, we decided we still needed to fit in a few Hida Beef Buns. One of our favourite foods from our first trip. There is a stall along the river where the Migawa morning markets are set up and they sell steaming hot Hida Beef Buns as well as other Hida Beef specialities. ALL DELICIOUS. And if its a cold morning there is nothing better than holding onto a steaming hot bun and eating that delicious filling.
Now completely stuffed, we thought it might be a good idea to check out the other morning markets in Takayama which are situated further up the river, and on the other side. It was a nice walk especially since we needed to do SOMETHING to burn off all that food, but the markets ended up being a more fresh produce for the locals market. Still interesting to see, but nothing for us to buy ;)
Still feeling full, but being absolute pigs we started thinking about what we would do for lunch. Having two days in Takayama this time around was so much better, as this meant we did not have to rush at all and could then take our time and just wander around. So since we were not starving yet - we did just that. Wandering around the streets of Takayama made me realise that you could spend so much more time here, beyond the tourists sites, the town itself is just gorgeous. All the local streets are so peaceful and traditional looking, with cute little cafes and restaurants dotted everywhere. We came across quite a lot of restaurants with Hida Beef with Hoba Miso on the menu, but continued to look around until we found a well priced one. Surprisingly, after circling quite a few blocks we ended back at the old town on Sannomachi street and found a great restaurant there that had Hida Beef on the menu at a great price. It was a building that I had walked past many a time and is very easy to find, it has a big smily wooden cat (or Maneki Neko) out the front :)
Hida Beef with Hoba Miso Restaurant
The restaurant was located in one of the old merchant houses and was quite busy. We were able to get a table in our own private-ish room, and an old japanese couple were also sat at the same table as us. They were just gorgeous and smiled at us the whole time and attempted to communicate. The food came out as a set so there was pickles, rice, tofu, miso soup & hida beef with hoba miso. Unreal.
After lunch we continued to wander around the town, and discovered for the first time the strange japanese phenomenon that is;
DOGS WITH LEATHER PANTS!
DOGS WITH THEIR OWN PRAMS! But seriously, there are hundreds of these.
In between seeing crazy dog related japanese trends, we saw quite a lot of other interesting things;
and we drank sake from a sake brewery;
Mmm snacks & canned coffee and strange milky yoghurty drinks
All in all a great day - we stayed that night at Sumiyoshi Ryokan again, and had another half day of Takayama the next day until our bus was due to leave for Shirakawago.
Hotel: Sumiyoshi Ryokan
Price: 20,900Y for two incl kaseki dinner & breakfast
Web: http://www.sumiyoshi-ryokan.com/
Ph: 0577-32-0228
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