Takefue surrounds, Kurokawa
We left Beppu early today to get to Aso at a reasonable time and without having to do any transfers. Although a short distance the train trip can take quite a while because it is an older train on an older windy line. However it is a really beautiful and scenic trip through green valleys and mountains.
Aso is best known for being the site of the largest active volcano in Japan. The town itself is actually situated inside an ancient caldera with most of the land used for farming the rich volcanic soil.
Once we arrived at Aso we picked up our hire car that we had reserved through ToCoo! Which was quite easy as it was located right next to the station. There isn’t a great deal to do in the town itself so we headed directly for the volcano.
Being June and the wet season we knew we weren’t going to have sunny days and blue skies but thought a bit of rain wouldn’t be that much of a hassle and we would be fine. Over the next few days though we discovered that June weather in Japan is so so different from what we are used to in Australia and it absolutely needs to be taken into consideration when planning your trip (I have never been in an Asian wet season before… silly me). As we started our ascent up towards Aso caldera we noticed the weather started to change and the clouds rolled in. Soon we were driving with only a few metres visibility in front of us as we were in complete cloud cover. Needless to say once we got to the top and reached the Aso Volcano museum, we couldn’t see much – if anything. It actually took us a while to find the museum as we could only see a few metres in front of us when we were in the carpark. To kill time and in hope that the clouds may clear a little we went into the museum and had a look at the exhibits. Hmm, it is quite an old museum and there are some interesting things in there like a live view screen of the crater, but it is very 70’s museum and a little outdated. Most exhibits have some English explanations but at a basic level.
After some time a bit of the cloud cleared and we were able to see portions of the crater and mountains, but we finally gave up on seeing most of the area clear up and headed on down.
Aso Volcano Museum
Aso Volcano Museum when the cloud cleared, before this we couldn't see the building!
The crater starting to clear up...
Visibility!
Kome zuka
We had that night booked at Kurokawa Onsen so we decided to head straight there after eating some katsudon at the Aso station. We had a little difficulty with our GPS as our ryokan had provided a mobile number instead of a landline, and a landline is a necessity for using the gps! With the assistance of the information desk near the station we plugged in a phone number of the Kurokwa Onsen information centre and headed out of the Aso caldera up into the mountains.
The drive to Kurokawa Onsen is really lovely, if leaving from Aso you will reach a viewpoint which looks down across the entire caldera. Heading into the higher ground there are all these cool green dome hills on the way and farmland on amazing looking black volcanic soil.
Aso
Kurokawa Onsen – what a shame! The shame is we spent such a ridiculously short time here. I had tried to book two nights but as the second night was a Saturday there were no vacancies in the entire place. Our ryokan was also a ten minute drive out of the town so our time in the town itself was only about an hour. And having spent so little time there I really am not an authority on the place but still – I really would recommend coming here! It is a gorgeous little place, a tiny little riverside onsen village in the lush lush mountains. Roads so narrow the cars can only go one way and have to squeeze through. Japanese people walking along all these narrow streets in their yukuta, going from one onsen to the next. A rushing river, bridges, steam rising, crowds of happy onsen lovers and lots of lovely little shops selling delicious looking food. Saying I was upset I didn’t get to spend one night in the centre of this town is an understatement. Next time, next time!
Kurokawa Onsen
Kurokawa Onsen
Kurokawa Onsen
Icecream shop in Kurokawa Onsen
Even with all my disappointment of having to leave that gorgeous little village behind, once we got to our ryokan all was forgiven. I have no idea how the Japanese do it, but as soon as our car drove into the driveway of Takefue a man was already running out with umbrellas (is there a sensor system? A camera? Does he just stand there all day?). He led us into the reception area which was all dark wood, irori and bamboo and we checked in with a little difficulty – no English here! We were then led to our villa - each villa here is separate, surrounded by bamboo forests and accessed by wooden paths. We were lucky enough to get a villa with a stunning outdoor onsen which overlooked surrounding forest. Although it was summer, because of the torrential rain it was actually a great experience to sit in the onsen with the rain pouring down. The onsen itself was not at its hottest either because of all the rain diluting it. During our stay here it poured rain, and then continued to rain to entire time. Luckily the accommodation was so amazing that it didn’t matter we hardly went further than our front door and onsen.
Our room balcony, Takefue Ryokan, Kurokawa Onsen
Our dining room irori, Takefue Ryokan, Kurokawa Onsen
Aesop products in the private indoor onsen, Takefue Ryokan, Kurokawa Onsen
Our indoor onsen, Takefue Ryokan, Kurokawa Onsen
Our outdoor onsen, Takefue Ryokan, Kurokawa Onsen
Outdoor onsen overlooking forest, Takefue Ryokan, Kurokawa Onsen
Sushi dinner in ice bowl, Takefue Ryokan, Kurokawa Onsen
Kaseiki dinner, Takefue Ryokan, Kurokawa Onsen
Takefue Ryokan, Kurokawa Onsen
Takefue Ryokan, Kurokawa Onsen
As you can probably tell from these photos, an amazing place. Excellent rooms, onsen, service and food. My only negative was the lack of English, I of course don’t mind if no one speaks English as why should they – however it would be nice to have a written English welcome sheet as many ryokan do these days (explaining the basics such as customs, time of dinner, brekkie, check out etc) I am quite sure that in Kyushu there are not that many western tourists so I understand why it is a bit harder to find English information in the area.
More information on Mount Aso
Ropeway Website: http://www.kyusanko.co.jp/aso/english.html
This has all the information you need :)
Kurokawa Spa Entrance Pass
You can purchase one of these from any Ryokan for ¥1200, and it is valid for any 3 participating onsen. Without a pass the entrance fees are around ¥500 each.
We didn't get to use any of these onsen but they all look amazing:
Yamabiko Onsen, surrounded by trees & nature
Ikoi Ryokan
http://www.ikoi-ryokan.com/english/
Oku no Yu, next to river, cave bath and waterfall
Yamamizugi, looks lovely
http://www.yamamizuki.com/
Hozantei, waterfalls and streams
http://www.hozantei.com/en/
Sinmeikan, cave onsen
http://www.sinmeikan.jp/
Yu-ka
http://www.yu-ka.info/
Car Hire
Web: http://www2.tocoo.jp/
Tocoo is a great english website for finding & booking car hire all over Japan, we have used it a number of times and they make it quite easy.
Accommodation
Hotel: Takefue
Price: ¥66,000 for Kokyu-an Room w private outdoor rock pool & indoor bath.
Location: 5725-1 Manganji, Minamioguni-machi, Aso-gun, Kumamoto
Additional: Kaiseki Dinner, Breakfast & Hot Spring included
Web: http://takefue.com/
Booking: We booked through Ryokan Collection. Otherwise you can book through Ikyu.
Hi Pondearosa,
ReplyDeleteSorry, I should have posted on this page other than the other one.
By the way, I messaged you on tripadvisor about Takefue onsen in Kurokawa and you said the prices have increased. So after I checked the current rate of the room you stayed in before "Kokyu-an", I was stunned at how they can increase from 66,000 yen to 94,000 yen for two people per night in less than a year. Hence, I e-mailed them and mentioned that someone on tripadvisor stayed at Takefue onsen in June 2011 and I asked them to let me know why there has been such a BIG increase in less than a year. They came back and said that they had a renovation in September 2011. I don't know whether to believe it or not as from September should be a busy period for onsens being cooler in weather. They would have had to have a massive renovation to put the price onto guests by AUD330 per night. Now that the price is approx $1,130 per night as opposed $800. Do you think it's still worth while paying that much from your experience?
Wow, 94,000 Yen! I don't think I have ever paid that much for a ryokan. I am not sure what they would have renovated to make that price increase, it is a huge difference in price... It was a really beautiful ryokan and very luxurious, but I think the 'value' would depend on how comfortable you are paying that price? I linked to a couple of other ryokan in Kurokawa above - there are many ryokan in the town centre and the advantage of those is that you can walk around in your yukuta and try out a number of surrounding onsen instead of just the ones available at your accommodation. As I was staying at Takefue I wasn't able to do this as it is a drive out of town. I think either option is wonderful, I must admit I do want to go back to try out some of the other onsen there like the cave ones and Yamabiko.
ReplyDeleteI think we'll stay one night at Takefue just for the experience anyway. Is Yamabiko in the centre of town or close enough to be reached on foot? First, I was thinking of staying at Yamamizuki then Takefue, but I think Yamamizuki is quite out of town too. It looks beautiful though + it has good reviews. I had my mind set on Yamamizuki before I found Takefue.
ReplyDeleteOh how I miss Takefue, and reading your blog brings back so many memories.
ReplyDeleteWe were also there in June 2011, with our 3 kids, and staying there gave us the best 2 nights we've ever had in any place in Japan (we've been there 4 times now). From the moment we arrive (and yes there were a few gentlemen waiting to guide us and help us with our luggage); The surrounding bamboo forest, the Onsen(s) and perfectly prepared food were all fabulous, and I've dreamt of returning ever since.
We were charged about US$300 per adult per night, and US$100 per child, so it was definitely not a cheap stay, but with the Kaiseki meals and Private Onsens, and the first class treatment, we never felt like we overpaid.
As for the lack of English... Because we booked directly with the Ryokan, they knew that we spoke english (and no Japanese), and they arranged that an english speaking male staff was present for the duration of our stay.
Thanks Darrell! I miss it as well - such a beautiful place, and such beautiful people working there. I booked through a third party website which could explain why I didn't get the english speaking staff. I never feel like I have paid too much when staying at a Ryokan - the service, food & accommodation are always beyond my expectations.
DeleteHow old were your children when you went? I now have a three month old boy and am wondering how long I have to wait till I can go back to Japan!! Since you have been four times I am sure you understand haha.